Dhaka's Biryani - A Taste of Aristocracy

Sometimes it's greasy and sometimes it's dry. But it'sfirst name that comes up is Fakhruddin's Biryani. The
always spicy. It's a dish full of long-grain rice that willdish is named after the famous chef late Mohammad
not stick together and holds a succulent piece of meatFarkhruddin, who was known more as 'Fakhruddin
inside it. It's pleasantly aromatic, but not too sharp. TheBaburchi' (Baburchi is the Bangla synonym for chef).
lovely aroma of spice and the delightful sight of theHe started serving snacks for the students of
dish bring water to your mouth. And when you taste it,Viqarunnisa Noon School (a renowned all-girls school in
the subtle flavor and taste of the spices mildly andDhaka) students during the mid eighties and eventually
pleasantly come through. It's well-cooked, flavorsome,became famous for his great Biryani recipes. Soon his
succulent and delicious. And once you start eating, yourecipes become a pinnacle and today it has become a
will end up cleaning your plate down to the last grain ofsymbol of upper crust to entertain the guests of any
rice.function with Fakhruddin's Biryani. The famous chef
That is a plate of delicious Biryani placed in front ofdied back in 1997 but his sons are still serving his recipe
you. Biryani is perhaps the most popular rice basedwith 3 exclusive outlets in Dhaka city, located
dish in the world that is available in many forms.respectively at Dhanmondi, Gulshan and Uttara.
Though, this dish is known as a traditional famousAlthough Fakhruddin's restaurants are famous for its
Indian cuisine to the world, Biryani from Dhaka meansKachhi Biryani, it serves top class Chicken Biryani and
something very special to the food lovers. TraditionalBorhani (A kind of yogurt drink) as well.
Indian Biryani has a number of variants like HyderabadiHaji's Biryani is another name that shines when you
Biryani, Afghani Biryani, Sindhi Biryani, Lucknowi Biryanithink about Dhaka's Biryani. It was established by Haji
etc. which clearly represents the different preparationAhmed Ali (Haji is not a part of their family title, it is use
for different states of India. But Biryani from Dhakato show that he has performed the Hajj) way back in
has mostly two variations, Kachhi Biryani and Chicken1939 at the Monir Hossain Lane in Narinda, Wari.
Biryani. Kachhi Biryani is cooked with mutton (andToday, the main restaurant is located at Kazi Alauddin
rarely with beef) while Chicken Biryani has chicken asRoad, Nazira Bazar. The Biryani from Haji is very
its meat ingredient. In the Indian preparation, the longunique as it is served dry (most Biryani are cooked
grain Bashmati rice is used for Biryani. But mostwith a lot of oil). Another interesting fact about this
recipes of Biryani from Dhaka use the Bangladeshirestaurant is that it starts serving after Asr prayer and
'Kali-Jira' rice, very fine polao rice which is producedmostly sold out by the Isha prayer. "The restaurant
only in the northern districts like Dinajpur.remains so crowded during the business hours that
Biryani is derived from a Persian word 'beryan' whichmost people have to wait for at least 15-20 minutes
means 'fried' or 'roasted'. It is believed that Biryani wasbefore they get an emty seat," said by Haji Md. Sahed
brought to the Indian subcontinent by the MuslimHossain, the current owner of Haji's Biryani and second
travelers and merchants from Arab. However, there isson of late Haji Ahmed Ali. He also added, "Due to
also another saying regarding the origin of Biryani. In theenormous public demand, we have recently opened
war time during the Mughal period, the soldiers wereour first branch at Progoti Sharani."
provided one item meal. Rice and meat were cookedAnother prominent name in the Biryani world of Dhaka
together and served. Later, such recipe wasis "Nanna Miah's" Biryani. Situated in the Nazimuddin
introduced more formally in the royal dining andRoad of Old Dhaka (beside the Dhaka Central Prison),
eventually become immensely popular throughout the"Nanna Miah's" Biryani is famous for the unique
rice-eater community in Indian subcontinent.'Chicken Kachhi' preparation. Only chicken is used for
There are numerous fast food restaurants throughoutBiryani here. They have two recipes- 'Chicken Kachhi'
the city of Dhaka these days and the number is justand 'Chicken Pakki'. "I come to old Dhaka at least once
growing up. Even international fast food chains likein a month for two things- Nanna's Biryani and Beauty's
KFC and Pizza Hut has a number of their outlets atSharbat (a kind of drink). I'll miss them more than
different city points. Despite the dominance of fastanything once I settle myself abroad" said by Porag, a
food, particularly with the young generation, Biryani still24 year old man who is migrating to Canada soon.
has its very special place in the heart of the citizens.Star Restaurant is another landmark for serving
"Almost each Friday morning we have a specialdelicious Biryani. The principal branch of the restaurant
cricket match with our college mates and the loosingis located at B.C.Roy Road in Alu Bajar, Sutrapur
team has to treat the winners a special meal withwhich was established almost 45 years back. But it
Biryani. We visit different restaurants each week togained enormous fame when they launched their own
taste different Biryani. But we just never get enoughfive storied restaurant in Dhanmondi, the city's heart
of it!" said by Sabbir Iqbal, a 29 year old executive whoplace. "This is the biggest restaurant of the country
is working with Banglalink.that serves deshi food and we sell around 8,000 plates
Biryani is so popular at this part of the world thatof Biryani each day," said by Sheikh Mizan, floor
wedding or any other ceremonies will almost certainlymanager of the Star Restaurant.
have Biryani in its menu. "I got married almost 34 yearsApart from the above mentioned there are several
back. By that time, Dhaka was not today's Dhaka.other restaurants which also serves various Biryani
Things have changed so much since then. But fewdishes with their own special flavor. Dolma House of
things do remain same as it was decades before.Motijheel is famous for its 'Dolma Biryani', prepared
Menu of my wedding receptions had Biryani then and itwith both meat and vegetable. Karai Gosto, a
still has today. My younger daughter is about to getrestaurant in Dhanmondi serves its unique 'Motor
married in next January and surely Biryani is going toBiryani', that use beans along with their benchmark
be served as main course. We 'Dhakaiya' (residents ofmenu called 'Karai Gosto.' Besides, there are few
old Dhaka who lives there for many years) peoplerestaurants in Dhaka who serves Indian Biryani with
cannot think of our any celebrations without dishes fullthe local flavor. Dhaaba, an Indian food shop, serves
of delicious Biryani," proudly said by Fazley Noman, a'Hyderabadi Dum Biryani' that is cooked in a 'Kachhi'
60 year old retired person who has been living in thestyle. Voot, another upscale restaurant in Dhaka has
Rankin Street, Wari ever since he was born.their special 'Maharani Biryani' that is cooked in South
Although, Biryani is counted as the heritage food of oldIndian flavor and uses a lot of spice. There is also a
Dhaka, there are a number of food shops around thetiny restaurant in city's Lalmatia named as 'Swaad
new city as well which serve fine quality of Biryani.Tehari Ghar' which is very famous for its Tehari, a
"We like fast food menus like pizza, pasta or burgersvariant of Biryani. Tehari is cooked with less oil and
while we hang out with friends but whenever there isthus more dry than Biryani and mostly use beef for
any special occasion to celebrate like birthday ormeat. Interestingly, in India, Tehari is referred to
something, Biryani from Malancha or Khushbuvegetarian version of Biryani.
restaurant is our first preference," this is the statementThere is a large selection of foods in Dhaka that are
of Nusrat Khandker, a 21 year old student fromtasty, delicious and made with local flavor. But not
University of Dhaka. Dhaka's Biryani is not onlymany of them are famous worldwide. Biryani of
available in Dhaka. It has spread through hundreds ofDhaka is one of those few ones that have earned the
sub continental restaurants in many big cities of thelove of food lovers across the world. According to
world. Nishat Afza, a 34 year old NRB living in LondonGoogle Insight (Google's Keyword tracking service),
and currently visiting her homeland mentioned, "Once inBiryani is the most searched recipe in regards of
a while, we go out for a meal and often we ended upBangladeshi foods. If anyone visits Dhaka, one should
visiting the famous Dhaka Biryani House located at Milebe prepared to have at least one hearty meal of
End Road to get a taste from Bangladesh."Biryani with its sweet spicy aroma.
Whenever you talk about the Biryani from Dhaka, the